Tuesday, August 30, 2016

Final thoughts...

This has been a wonderful trip. I really enjoyed the variety of scenery, the different modes of transportation we used, all the hotels and the food. Berlin is a huge, busy, sprawling city. It can be overwhelming. It reminds me of London and Paris. When I go out on the streets, I have to prepare myself psychologically to deal with the noise, the traffic, the masses of people, the sheer size of the buildings. I need to be vigilant about crossing the streets with confusing lights and intersections, about where I am going and what is going on around me. It can be tiring and the heat in Berlin contributed to an overall feeling of fatigue after awhile. One has to find quiet places in a city like this to refresh and take a break from the deluge of stimuli constantly bombarding one's senses.

Berlin is vibrant, diverse and interesting. East Berlin was pretty much demolished during WW II so it is amazing what has been accomplished in the way of rebuilding. Basically, all of the buildings were destroyed so there weren't any old buildings to restore or rebuild. The new structures lack much charm. It feels in some ways like walking on the streets of an American city with its usual array of mall stores, glass buildings, and so on. Interesting that East Berlin is now the "place to be." It is where the action takes place whereas West Berlin is the more staid, traditional area.

I learned a lot about the history of east and west Germany. What life was really like during the division. The difficulties of reunification. People had no experience of living in a democracy and dealing with a capitalistic system. Many promises were made but the East Germans were exploited and taken advantage of. Some wished to return to the old regime and its orderliness. There were tensions between East and West Germans. Now, however, with a new generation, East Germans are fully integrated into the culture and there is little of the previous rancor left.

An example of what happened to many people is the father of our leader Jessica's boyfriend. He was an intelligent well-educated man who believed in the socialist system being set up in East Germany. He was a well respected speech writer for the top officials and a member of the Party. After a time, however, he became disillusioned with the system and wanted to get out. He asked for another job and was given the job of tractor driver. He worked as a tractor driver for 13 years. When reunification took place, he wasn't prepared to do anything else. Many people were assigned agricultural jobs on the collective farms in East Germany and were ill suited for their lives in the new unified Germany. Some people suggested he raise chinchillas to make fur coats. He and his brother put all they had into this endeavor but it was foolhardy since there was no market for fur coats in Germany and the endeavor failed. He eventually got a job at a Home Depot type store and has worked his way up to manager but he has never regained a position to reflect his education and intelligence.  

Our three leaders on this trip did a wonderful job of making the trip seamless and smooth for us. Philipp conceived of and designed this trip. He did a wonderful job of finding interesting cultural extras for us to enhance our experience of the country such as the marzipan tour, the various modes of transportation, beer tasting, etc. He also shared stories with us about the country and gave interesting talks about the history. Jessica, a new Experience Plus! leader, is a delightful person from German speaking Switzerland. She was competent and shared herself with us by telling stories e.g. The Little Mermaid story as part of our briefings. Her boyfriend, Ronny, is grew up in East Germany and is also an Experience Plus! leader. Michela is a competent, efficient leader who was always there for us. 


Day 13 - Cycle to Potsdam

Thursday, August 25, 2016
What an absolutely wonderful last day of our trip. We have a relatively short ride - 58 km - so can take it a bit easier in the morning. Our rooms won't be available until 3:00 anyway. Philipp is the sweep and rides with us all day. Weather is warm, sunny and beautiful. We are on busy roads but other times are on bike paths through the woods. The contrast between the two environments is striking. One minute we are wondering if that big truck we see behind us in our mirrors will manage to pass us and the next minute green trees arch over a beautiful bike path and make it look like a green tunnel with dappled sunlight filtering through. We are riding along the Havel River so we see lakes and boating areas. We stop for coffee at a very nice place right on the water at 30 km. We enjoy visiting with Philipp about East German history. We've learned so much on this trip. We stop for lunch in Werder a sizable town with lots of traffic. We ride on cobblestones for quite a distance. They are bone jarring! Our efforts pay off though. We ride onto a small island and have lunch at a place right on the water. Several of us have smoked fish which is delicious.

Traffic increases as we approach Potsdam. We ride through Sans Souci Park and palace, the domain of King Frederick II. The buildings are enormous and fancy! Potsdam is a wealthy city. It was a royal residence for Prussian kinds and the german Kaiser until 1918. King Frederick II from 1740 to 1786 was an interesting character. He was a military man, excessive in his tastes and lifestyle, yet interested in the arts, music, philosophy and literature. He modernized then Prussian bureaucracy and civil service.

We arrive at our hotel in a town square, turn in our trusty steeds and rack packs. We have ridden 760 km. Congratulations all around! We have been assigned the Presidential Suite at our hotel! It is beautiful and we don't want to leave the room. I immediately fill the tub with water and soak for a long time. What a special treat! We have our final dinner at a restaurant nearby.

                                      The end of our tour. We have ridden 760 km!

                                     King Frederick II's palace called Sans Souci

                                 View from window of our suite

                                          Sitting area in our suite

                                        Our leaders - Jessica, Philipp, Michela








Day 10 - Cycle to Lenzen

August 22, 2016-
I am actually writing this on August 29th while waiting for our flight from Frankfurt to SFO. I'm sure I've lost some of the details of the day but will document what I can. The day was memorable for the length of the ride that day - 97km - along with some hills. Nothing serious but nevertheless ups and downs. It's been some time since I've done a ride of this length let alone another 96 km ride on the agenda for tomorrow. I am glad to have the e-bike. Kathy is feeling back to normal so fine with my having it. I was so tired that evening that I didn't have the energy to write anything. We get in at 5:50 and have to be ready for a tour of the castle where we are staying the night at 5:30 followed by dinner. 

We leave Lüneburg right at 9:00. Everyone is all business this morning. I'm really sorry not to have time to explore this lovely town. We are in a very nice hotel and our room is on the river. I do take some pictures of the view from there. The ride today rejoins the Elbe River and we ride along a natural area of the Lower Saxony Elbatalaue. We will cross from West Germany into East Germany, the former DDR (German Democratic Republic in English). Jessica will mark the spot for us. It is just across a bridge that we ride over. We will be in East Germany for the rest of the trip. 

Our leaders prepare a delicious picnic for us at the top of one of the hills we ride today. There is a great view of the area. Some climb a big tower, a lookout, and as I am walking beside it, something drops inches from my head! It is Billy's wooden monkey that he was posing on the railing for pictures to his grandchildren. A few branches come down, too. Whew! No harm done. We ride in with Philipp who is the sweep for the day. He tells us about life in East Germany as we ride along. We stop for ice cream 10 km out. We all need a break. 

We see an almost immediate difference in the towns and buildings in East Germany. The buildings are drab and dilapidated though some have been restored. This part of East Germany did not benefit from reunification. People lost their jobs and were not prepared in any way to adapt to a democracy. Some, even today, would like to return to the old structured way.

Tonight we stay in the Castle of Lenzen. The castle was donated by its owner to BUND, the biggest environmental organization in Germany. It is now owned and operated by BUND as a hotel and conference center. It is adjacent to the nature preserve that used to be no man's land between East and West Germany. The family who owned the castle left after Germany was split. By the time the country was reunified, it was run down and its heir aging. She gave it to BUND. As they were developing it, they discovered ruins of an ancient Slavic community All food is local, organic and "bio." Bio is a term seen frequently in Germany. A woman from BUND gives us a tour of the castle and tells us about the history of it. I am interested and she is passionate about the place, but it's a little too long and detailed after our long day. Climbing three more flights of stairs to see all the levels was a bit much too!

The leaders have arranged for champagne to toast Dave's and my 51st anniversary. The hotel won't let them bring the champagne into the kitchen because it isn't organic! It is a lovely place. Weather gray and cool. We were going to eat outside but it is too cool.





                                   Bridge between East and West Germany

                                                     Castle of Lenzen







Sunday, August 28, 2016

A Hot Day of Exploring Berlin

Sunday, August 28, 2016
Kim and Billy come to our apartment and have breakfast with us before going to the airport. It continues to be hot and humid. Gets up to 94 today. We tailor our activities accordingly. We do a one hour boat tour on the Spree River at 10:30. It is interesting to see the buildings from the perspective of the water but we are so glad we have done only an hour tour, not three. It is hot sitting in the sun! Berlin has many modern buildings of sleek design. We have lunch at the National History Museum's cafe before starting to explorere this vast museum. The main part of the museum is in a very old building. In fact, I think I remember that it is the oldest building in Berlin. The museum was scheduled to be near the Reichstag but after reunification, the decision was made to put it here. Across the courtyard is the ultramodern  I.M. Pei building which houses special exhibits. I really like this building better than the old one. It has lots of glass and is light and airy. I enjoy an exhibit about German immigrants. The end of the exhibit features current immigrants and three poignant interviews with young immigrants from Syria and Iraq bring tears to my eyes.

We take the tram to meet Jeannie and Frank and Linda and Chas at a big biergarten in Tiergarten Park. People are boating, swimming  and drinking beer. We sit at picnic tables and have our beers and Apfelschorles, a drink I have become fond of. It is apple juice with sparkling water. You can use other juices as well. We enjoy a last get together with these people we've gotten to know so well over the years. It is nice to know we don't have say final goodbyes. It is just until next year. Jeannie reports that her phones has been pickpocketed. She wasn't aware of anything but thinks it happened outside the subway station. It was in a zipper pocket of her purse. Not a nice way to end a trip!

We go with Jeannie and Frank back near the hotel along the river to the same restaurant we went to last night. We have a light meal, then say our goodbyes to Frank and Jeannie and go home to pack. I am ready to go home. I'm a bit tired of the heat here and sightseeing weary. I do think we've used our time well here. Now to bed for early reveille tomorrow.
                                          View along the Spree River

                                           One of the many modern government buildings

                                     New Berlin main train station

                                At the Cafe am Neuen See in the Tiergarten









Saturday, August 27, 2016

Further Exploring of Berlin - Audio tour, Under the Berlin Wall Tour

I was so tired last night but have a good sleep. Our apartment does not have air conditioning. We use a small fan provided by the hotel and with windows open, it isn't too bad. We are refreshed and energized. We prepare to be tourists on the streets of Berlin. We want to be sure to look the part so we take inventory. Sunscreen. Check. Sun hat. Check. Camera slung over neck with strap handy for pulling out for a picture. Check. Sunglasses with cord around neck. Check. Backpack with water, trail mix and banana. Check. I have learned to organize the straps around my neck so as not to get tangled up with each other. That's an organized tourist! We are ready to hit the streets.

We are fairly early and the air is cool, it is quiet, the streets not yet crowded with traffic and people. It is not long, however, before it starts to heat up and the noise of traffic and crowds of people begin. I almost wish we had left even earlier. We do the Rick Steves audio walking tour of Berlin which starts at the Reichstag. We like these Rick Steves tours because it gives one a focus for things to look for and just enough information and we can go at our own pace. The tour goes mainly down Unter der Linden, the main street of East Germany. We see much construction and the building of East Germany continues 26 years after reunification. We have learned so much about this time period when East and West Germany were separated. One gets the real impact of that situation when we see it in person. We stop for a coffee break and end the tour at the big TV tower near the Berlin Cathedral. We have lunch in a pedestrian street near the cathedral. 

We have an interesting experience on the U-Bahn train. A man comes through checking tickets and tells us ours has expired and he is going to give us a fine of 63 Europe each. We explain that we bought the ticket at the hotel and that we had been told it was good for 24 hours. He gets off the train with us at our station and consults with his colleague, then says he will give us a lighter fine of just 63 Europe. He asks for ID and Kathy gives him her drivers license.He writes up the ticket and tells us to have the hotel call the Customer Service Center. Either that or we have to go to the Center on Monday which we can't do because we are leaving on Monday. He helps us buy a ticket for the day in the machine. He has been polite and tried to be helpful. (The hotel does call the Customer Service Center but they say we have to pay. We probably will pay but Dave will email the manager about the situation. We hope the woman who told us isn't docked 63 euros from her paycheck.)

We have just enough time to take the U-Bahn to the start of the two hour Under the Berlin Wall tour and are successful in getting tickets today. In fact, the tour isn't even full today! The tour is in English and is done by a man from the Netherlands. I think he is an aspiring actor as he is dramatic in his presentation. He talks about the three ways East Berliners tried to escape from the East to the West, i.e. by using the subway tunnels, using the sewer tunnels and by digging tunnels. People must have been desperate to do that! Most of the tour is underground. Some of it is in areas we visited on the other tour. There is a repeat of some information we have learned over the last few days but it is, nevertheless, interesting. 

In our walking around Berlin, we take note of the fun walking green man, called Ampelmännchen, on the Walk signs. This was started in 1961 in East Berlin as a universal way to tell people what to do. After reunification, the government wanted to do away with any signs of East Berlin so got rid of the Ampelmãnnchen. There was such an outcry and an organized effort to bring it back that the government relented and he is still around. He has become an iconic symbol of Berlin. One sees this green guy as a logo on all kinds of merchandise. The government did demand that the green guy be turned to walk toward the left instead of the right as he originally was positioned.

We return to the room for a rest, then go to dinner along the river again. We have a light meal which suits us fine. We are pleased with this day. We have held up well and done a good job of planning. One more day before we go home.


                      Brandenburg Tor, the dividing line between East and West Germany

                                      Memorial to murdered Jews

                                       Berlin Wall Memorial

                            Iconic green guy - Ampelmännchen - seen on Walk signs in Berlin

                      Reproduction of underground tunnel

                                                  Berlin Cathedral








Friday, August 26, 2016

End of Tour - Saying Good-bye

We thoroughly enjoyed our beautiful room last night. The sun is shining on the Brandenburg Tor just outside our window and I take a picture. This small Brandenburg Tor leads to the big one in Berlin. The square is empty this time of morning except for the street sweeper. It is early because we have to be ready to go to Berlin at 8:00 for our tour at 9:00. Guess there wasn't any flexibility in the time for the tour. We have breakfast at 7:00, a yummy one, too. It is about a 45 minute drive to Berlin from Potsdam. We go in two taxi vans. Jessica will take our luggage to the hotel in Berlin. The four of us are staying in a two bedroom apartment in the hotel - HSH-Mitte.  We have enjoyed this arrangement on other trips.

We have a tour of a couple of the underground bunkers in Berlin. Our English speaking guide gives an interesting, sometimes humorous tour and talk about these bunkers. One was from WW II and the other was built in 1977 during the Cold War. These bunkers were meant to protect the citizens of Berlin but they were woefully inadequate. They could only hold a fraction of the population. It was a very interesting tour. We walk with Philipp and see other Berlin Wall related sites. We see where the dividing line was on Bernaustrasse. It is very hot and we are roasting! We get to the hotel and our luggage has been delivered to our rooms by Jessica. Philipp tells Dave that he has left his iPAD at the hotel. (He later arranges for a taxi to bring it and it arrives within the hour.) A bunch of us go to lunch with Philipp at a nearby biergarten. Philipp says goodbye but nobody moves. It's obvious people are reluctant to say their final goodbyes. It's always hard at the end of a trip.

We are hot and tired but decide we will do another underground tour by the same organization that did our tour this morning since it was highly recommended by Philipp. We ask the person at the desk how to get there. She says it is easy by S-bahn train. There is a station just a short walk away. We buy a ticket good for five people and specifically ask if it is for 24 hours or just the day and are told 24 hours. When we get off at Gesunmundsee station, we spend at least 10 minutes trying to find our way out of the station! It is very confusing. By the time we do, it is 3:10 and there are only 3 tickets left! We see Linda and Chas who have gotten their tickets. We feel disappointed, frustrated, hot and tired. We decide we need to go back to the room and regroup. We find a supermarket nearby to get stuff for breakfast. It always takes a lot of time to find what you want in a foreign food store. 

None of us have done much preparation for this trip in terms of reading, thinking about transportation and so on so we take some time to read the chapter on Berlin from the Rick Steves book and to study the metro map. We discuss what we want to do for the two days we have here and come up with a plan. 

The day ends with a light dinner at a restaurant along the Spree River, a short distance from our hotel. It is pleasant sitting by the water with a breeze providing much appreciated cooler temperatures. In the end, we feel better about the day. I think we are all exhausted from the bike trip and the heat. Hopefully, we can get a good rest tonight. The hotel has provided small fans.

         Miniature Brandenburg Tor in the morning light as seen outside our hotel window

                                       Jessica, Michela, and Philipp - our leaders

                                        Shows where the Wall was off Bernaustrasse




Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Day 12 - Cycle to Brandenburg

The hotel we stayed in last night - Hotel Schloss Tangermünde -  is just a beautiful place. I'd love to spend some more time here. It is up on a hill overlooking the Elbe River so has wonderful views. The morning light always shows things off well. I greatly regret that I don't have any time to walk to the town which others say is lovely. (More about this issue later.)

It is definitely going to be warmer today. We soon take our jackets off. I am on the e-bike today. Good thing as I am quite tired from our two back to back 96 km days. We cross the same bridge over the Elbe that we came in on yesterday. This will be our last sight of the Elbe. Our first stop is at 12 km at the Jerichow Romanesque Monastery built in 1148. It is one of the most impressive examples of brick buildings in northern Germany dating from the Romanesque period and as such is an important stop along the "Romanesque Road'" a scenic route in this region that links all churches and cathedrals from 950-1250 AD which characterize the rise of Christianity in this region. 

We pedal along the Havel River and its nearby lakes as we make our way to Brandenburg. We are sometimes on a very busy road with big trucks, buses and fast cars and no shoulder (but nice smooth pavement) and then cut into a bike path running through a dense forest. It is Iike this all day. Some of the paths are really bumpy and we ride on quite a bit of cobblestone. It is windy in some places. We are really ready for a break so stop for coffee in Genthin at  34 km. It is quite warm and I know that saps my energy, too. Guess it's just a low energy day for me. That happens sometimes. 

We stop for lunch at 57 km on a lake. Most of the group is here and I think we have overwhelmed them because it takes forever to make our order and then another hour to get our food. I am grumpy about having to spend this much time at lunch! I get cooled down and stiffen up when I stop this long plus I want to get to the hotel and could be riding in this time. I must say the salad I ordered was beautifully presented and delicious when it came. We take a small ferry across the Havel River like the ones on the Delta in California. Brandenburg is a big busy city so, as it is in big cities, it takes awhile to make our way to the hotel. We get there at 3:45 and have an hour to shower and get ready for a tour of a museum at 4.45. I am tired and don't want to do any more standing today so opt not to go. The down time will help me a lot. 

                                     Grounds of Hotel Schloss Tangermünde
                                       Our room is the first green door
                                      Dining room of the Hotel Schloss Tangermünde 
                                 Jerichow Romanesque Monastery
                                      Hear no evil; see no evil; say no evil
           Riding on a pretty bike path